Hopeful over a Papal visit, Cubans cry 'Viva Cristo!'

Hundreds of Roman Catholic worshipers jammed Old Havana's cobblestone Cathedral Square on Sunday to attend a historic outdoor mass viewed here as a rehearsal for Pope John Paul II's visit on January 21-25.

"We begin today the mission of paving the way for your arrival," said Cardinal Jaime Ortega, referring to the pontiff. "We want to let the Cuban people know who the pope is. We want them to know how much the pope has prayed for them."

The cardinal's remarks were greeted by enthusiastic applause and cries of "Viva Cristo!" from the crowd, which sought refuge from a scorching tropical sun under a sea of parasols and banners bearing church slogans.

The occasion was festive, with a childrens' choir singing and smiling families posing for photographs.

Banners covering wrought-iron balconies surrounding the square proclaimed "John Paul, we wait for you," and "Messenger of truth and hope."

Aleida Suarez , 85, who lives about an hour away by bus, shielded herself from the sun with a newspaper as she waited for the service to begin. "This is such a big deal for me, " she said. "I don't know if it's the love I have for God, or religion, but I would not have missed this for anything."

The Roman Catholic Church, and religion in general, are making a comeback in Cuba. The state has eased political sanctions for believers, and the social stigma that once burdened churchgoers is fading. Even members of the Communist Party are allowed to attend services.

Sunday's makeshift altar, with a giant cross in front, was flanked by the flags of Cuba and the Vatican. A large picture of the pontiff hung from a building across from the church, a Cuban flag to its side.

Church officials insisted that the service was strictly religious, but there were hints of politics. Dignitaries attending included Michael G. Kozak, head of the U.S. Interest Section in Havana, and Caridad Diego, chief of religious affairs for the Communist Party.

In a message from the pope, delivered by the Vatican envoy to Cuba, Bishop Beniamino Stella , John Paul asked the Cuban people "for solidarity in the social development of Cuban society."

In his remarks, Ortega spoke of the pope's scheduled visit and delivered a message of hope to a people who barely have enough to eat.

The crowd of about 4,000 broke into thunderous applause and gave the cardinal a standing ovation when he declared, "Christ wins the hearts of the people who freely seek him out."

The crowd eventually began shouting "Long live Christ."

A church worker said he was looking forward to John Paul's visit in the hopes it will bring change to Cuba. "That's what we want," he said. "We want political change."

Another church worker said, "They're hoping for a miracle."

© 1997 Chicago Tribune